Today
we left for Japan. I've done this flight 4 times before, but I was
young. And had no idea what I was in for. When I first left for
Japan, I was 18, a recent high school graduate, and knew only one
thing about myself with absolute certainty: I did not want to go to
college.
College
had always been this great dreadful cloud looming over my future. I
was told from a young age that I had no choice but to go and that I
was supposed to figure out what I wanted to do with my life before I
got there. Wherever “there” was. But I never did. Never really
gave it any thought unless forced. If you had asked me when I was 18
what I wanted to do with my life, I probably would have either told
you that I wanted to be a journalist. Or a dancer. Or a physicist. I
don't think I ever gave the same answer twice. All I ever really
wanted to do was be the editor of a newspaper – unfortunately a
dying breed. When I finally did go to college, I decided that a
textbook editor would be more practical, so I started pursuing that.
I'm still not there.
Anyway,
back to Japan. I knew I didn't want to go to college, so I jumped at
the chance to delay my life and to travel abroad for the first time
(aside from Niagara Falls). Through circumstantial connections, I got
a job as a pre-school English teacher, which was my first experience
teaching English. Wait – I should qualify that – I didn't
actually teach English in Japan at all. That was just my job title.
The
school I worked at was a private pre-school, designed basically as a
day care program for single or two working parents who could afford
to send their children (ages 0-6) to “school” for up to 12 hours
a day. They hired me (and my friend) as “English teachers”
because they wanted to be able to market themselves as having
prepared their students for the best private kindergartens – by
teaching them English.
It
was my first real exposure to American Imperialism. A concept I have
thought long and hard about since. It's long been known that English
is the international language of business, but seriously, what good
is that going to do a 5-year-old? By the time those children
understand that learning English may in some way, in some cases, help
them in their future careers, it'll be far too late for them to learn
while they're young (which, according to much debated theories, is
the best time to learn). In fact, the children I taught are all
turning 13 this year. They probably still hate learning English.
And
let me tell you – they hated it. Well, as much as a 2-year-old can
hate anything. That's right, I was in the 2-3 year room. Meaning that
all of my students started the school year at 2 and turned 3 before
the end of the year. Practically what this meant was that I wasn't
teaching English so much as working at a pre-school. Theoretically it
meant that I was “immersing them in the English language so that
when they went to kindergarten they would be better prepared to
really start studying because they were accustomed to hearing the
language.” However, the real reason they hated English is because
I was a foreigner and stranger danger runs deep in Japanese culture.
It all stems from back before the world wars when Japan was
completely isolated from the rest of the world – from trade, from
international conflict, from everything. One of the first words I
learned in Japanese was “baka” which translates to “fool” and
was a word liberally applied to anyone who looked or spoke
differently. The term was so ubiquitous that even a fully born and
raised Japanese brother and sister I met were so typified because the
had spent some time living in the US and didn't have perfect Japanese
accents.
Probably the best example of such blatant “otherness” was at the spas. Japanese spas are often built up around hot springs, and you can go to bathe in the pools. And by bathe, I mean you have to be naked. My host family took me to the hot springs many times during my 6-month stay and every time I entered a pool, it would clear out. Instantly. They'd just leave and go to a different pool. My friend and I actually made a game of it at one point. The longest anyone ever stayed was 10 second. Let me tell you: there is nothing more mortifying than people fleeing at the sight of you naked. Fortunately this time I'm not allowed in the pools because I have a tattoo.
Back to the pre-school. I spent 40 hours a week (my first full time job) basically watching kids play. Fortunately, I also had several menial responsibilities, or even that would've gotten boring. For example, I got to rinse and ring out wash cloths for the kids to use as wet napkins during lunch. I also got to dust their cubbies, clean the stairs, and lead them on field trips to the many area playgrounds. Didn't the school have a playground? Why, yes, of course it did. But these kids were there for so long that they needed more stimulation than the same old playground day after day. We took them on mile long walks (still dealing with 2-year-olds mind you) in all kinds of weather just to get to these other playgrounds. The kids all wore matching hats and if anyone fell behind, they were dragged along by the hand until they were ready to keep up on their own again. I once tried to stop and comfort a child who had fallen and skinned his knee, but was only rewarded with a slap on the hand and some very angry yelling in Japanese.
And the food. Oh my god, the food. I'm not sure how many of you know this about me, but I can't stand seafood. I survived mainly on plain white rice (that I added Parmesan cheese to) and cookies I made in a toaster oven. I still have nightmares about going to the grocery store. Imagine being in a place, surrounded by food you don't like with labels you can't even read, while people glare at you for accidentally pushing your card down the right side of the aisle (yes, they drive... and walk on the left side of the road in Japan, and they have very strict grocery store aisle etiquette). The first time I went was straight from the airport. It was not a pleasant experience for me (or anyone else who was there, I'm sure).
The other notable thing that happened was what I like to call “the cuteness factor.” Apparently (and I have been told this by many different sources) I am the epitome of “cute” in Japan. I've never been able to figure out exactly what that means, but I'm pretty sure it means that when they look at me all they see is an anime character. I'm not sure which one. It was described to me like this: Japanese have a concept of cuteness that I am the perfect example of. “Ka-wai-ii” (one guess) was the second word of Japanese I learned because people would shout it at me as I walked down the street. It'll be interesting to see if that happens again. I have never felt so objectified in my life. And by old women!
Needless to say, I did not have a very good time in Japan. My grand 18-year-old adventure was a bust. I was working a miserably tedious job, wasn't allowed to care about the children I was working with, couldn't actually teach English, was hungry all the time, people pointed and laughed when I talked and ran out of the room when I was naked. It was literally most people's worst nightmare. Luckily, it wasn't my worst nightmare – but going back to Japan is.
I do have one thing going for me this time (actually way more than one thing). I'm traveling with family – my mother and my boyfriend – to visit family – my brother – and I'm on vacation. Oh and I'm a real English teacher now, so cross that one off too. I'm not allowed at the spas anymore, and I'm going to Tokyo – a real city with hopefully more open-minded people.
As I sit on the 14+ hour plane ride, I continually oscillate between “WHAT THE HELL WAS I THINKING GOING BACK THERE” and “This could be cool.” What better time to be in an emotional crisis than on a 14-hour flight. I'm concentrating all my energy on convincing myself that this time will be different. None of those bad experiences will happen, so none of those bad feelings will come back. My mom just brought me some chocolate chip cookies, and we're just past the half way mark, so right now things are looking up. I'm excited to see the Harajuku girls, see my brother, and explore what most people know as a beautiful exotic country that is full of culture, a rich history, and a beautiful language. It's too soon to tell what my mental state will be when we land, but I'm willing to give this country a second chance.
Probably the best example of such blatant “otherness” was at the spas. Japanese spas are often built up around hot springs, and you can go to bathe in the pools. And by bathe, I mean you have to be naked. My host family took me to the hot springs many times during my 6-month stay and every time I entered a pool, it would clear out. Instantly. They'd just leave and go to a different pool. My friend and I actually made a game of it at one point. The longest anyone ever stayed was 10 second. Let me tell you: there is nothing more mortifying than people fleeing at the sight of you naked. Fortunately this time I'm not allowed in the pools because I have a tattoo.
Back to the pre-school. I spent 40 hours a week (my first full time job) basically watching kids play. Fortunately, I also had several menial responsibilities, or even that would've gotten boring. For example, I got to rinse and ring out wash cloths for the kids to use as wet napkins during lunch. I also got to dust their cubbies, clean the stairs, and lead them on field trips to the many area playgrounds. Didn't the school have a playground? Why, yes, of course it did. But these kids were there for so long that they needed more stimulation than the same old playground day after day. We took them on mile long walks (still dealing with 2-year-olds mind you) in all kinds of weather just to get to these other playgrounds. The kids all wore matching hats and if anyone fell behind, they were dragged along by the hand until they were ready to keep up on their own again. I once tried to stop and comfort a child who had fallen and skinned his knee, but was only rewarded with a slap on the hand and some very angry yelling in Japanese.
And the food. Oh my god, the food. I'm not sure how many of you know this about me, but I can't stand seafood. I survived mainly on plain white rice (that I added Parmesan cheese to) and cookies I made in a toaster oven. I still have nightmares about going to the grocery store. Imagine being in a place, surrounded by food you don't like with labels you can't even read, while people glare at you for accidentally pushing your card down the right side of the aisle (yes, they drive... and walk on the left side of the road in Japan, and they have very strict grocery store aisle etiquette). The first time I went was straight from the airport. It was not a pleasant experience for me (or anyone else who was there, I'm sure).
The other notable thing that happened was what I like to call “the cuteness factor.” Apparently (and I have been told this by many different sources) I am the epitome of “cute” in Japan. I've never been able to figure out exactly what that means, but I'm pretty sure it means that when they look at me all they see is an anime character. I'm not sure which one. It was described to me like this: Japanese have a concept of cuteness that I am the perfect example of. “Ka-wai-ii” (one guess) was the second word of Japanese I learned because people would shout it at me as I walked down the street. It'll be interesting to see if that happens again. I have never felt so objectified in my life. And by old women!
Needless to say, I did not have a very good time in Japan. My grand 18-year-old adventure was a bust. I was working a miserably tedious job, wasn't allowed to care about the children I was working with, couldn't actually teach English, was hungry all the time, people pointed and laughed when I talked and ran out of the room when I was naked. It was literally most people's worst nightmare. Luckily, it wasn't my worst nightmare – but going back to Japan is.
I do have one thing going for me this time (actually way more than one thing). I'm traveling with family – my mother and my boyfriend – to visit family – my brother – and I'm on vacation. Oh and I'm a real English teacher now, so cross that one off too. I'm not allowed at the spas anymore, and I'm going to Tokyo – a real city with hopefully more open-minded people.
As I sit on the 14+ hour plane ride, I continually oscillate between “WHAT THE HELL WAS I THINKING GOING BACK THERE” and “This could be cool.” What better time to be in an emotional crisis than on a 14-hour flight. I'm concentrating all my energy on convincing myself that this time will be different. None of those bad experiences will happen, so none of those bad feelings will come back. My mom just brought me some chocolate chip cookies, and we're just past the half way mark, so right now things are looking up. I'm excited to see the Harajuku girls, see my brother, and explore what most people know as a beautiful exotic country that is full of culture, a rich history, and a beautiful language. It's too soon to tell what my mental state will be when we land, but I'm willing to give this country a second chance.




